LESLIE SEATON

January 19 & 20: Drove out to the Bishop's Lodge. Now a spa and resort, it is also the site where Jean Baptiste Lamy, the historical figure Cather fictionalized in "Death Comes..." had his lodge in the 1800s. His chapel is still onsite and is open to visitors.

(Click here for part 1 of the road trip.)

Then onto one of my favorite places in the world that also makes me worry I might hyperventilate and pass out, the Museum of International Folk Art. A giant building of tiny things.

The centerpiece of the museum is artist Alexander Girard's collection of folk art, "Multiple Visions: A Common Bond." In 1978, he gave over 100,000 objects to the museum, and designed the displays.

Temple toys from India

Figures at back are Sillies (Dury), 19th century caricatures of Russian aristocracy. The greyhound is British.

Ethiopian figure

There is a wall of samplers...

Japanese dolls (kokeshi)

Miniature Guatemalan birds

This beautiful little bird is from Taroudannt, Morocco circa 1958. The catalog noted this was "not at all traditional in that they depict the human figures and animals. Such depictions are strictly forbidden by Islamic Law."

I didn't note who created this charming little cricket.

A familiar face.

Beadwork from around the world.

African woodcarving

I saw two of these mama pigs with sucklings in the collection of Dia de los Muertos art.

This pig looks exhausted.

Lots of wycinanki, Polish paper cutting art.

I first became familiar with this a few years ago at a Polish Festival at Polish Home on Cap Hill. I bought some magnets from local artist Alisa Lahti.

She does demos through Polish Home and at local fests. See her work here.

This is an American cut paper piece, a memorial possibly commissioned or made by a Civil War Widow.

Mali Barbershop sign, 1973. "Throughout Africa, barbers display their repertoire with signs [that] are now collected as folk art. This art form emerged in the 1960s and 1970s as a first generation of self-trained artists was influenced by cinema posters and European commercial advertising."

Watchmaker sign, West Africa.

Mexican tin retablos. Holy images used on home altars

This is a miniature Mexican kitchen assembled by Girard.

The bright white and tidy assembly reminded me of Georgia O'Keeffee's NM kitchen, which I'd bought a postcard of the day before.

African barbershop sign in miniature.

Trains at the folk art museum for my young friend.

Besides the permanet Girard exhibit, there was also a special focus on Brazil, starting with these "Literatura de Cordel" (literature on a string). It "refers to small handprinted chapbooks of poetry, which address popular themes, folktales, and legends, native to the dry, impoverished interior of northeastern Brazil...Brazilian poets were often the salesman, singing the stories out loud to a mostly illiterate rural population. Some of the poets are also self-taught woodcut artists, and the covers of their chapbooks feature simple black-on-white images relating to the poems."

"How the People Participate in the Singing"/"The Young Man Who Was Hit by Young Women because He Didn't Know How to Flirt"

Some of them are topical to the day, like this one "War in the East or Hell in Iraq" from 1990.

The Brazil exhibit also featured some Carnival wear.

"The most spectacular figures are the caboclos de lanca (Afro-Indian lancers), who represent warriors possessed by Amerindian or African spirits. They dance, leap, drop to the ground, and sometimes duel with one another by slashing out with their long lances. Large cowbells worn on the dancers' backs make a clanking noise as they run and dance."

The ribbon-covered spear. Here's a video of these dudes in action. 

Also made a stop at the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture on Museum Hill...

...and attempted a stop at the Museum of Contemporary Native Arts downtown, but unfortunately they were closed for an exhibit change-out.

Checked out the San Miguel Mission. "Built between approximately 1610 and 1626, it is claimed to be the oldest church in the United States."

It is around the corner from the De Vargas Street House, alleged to be one of the oldest buildings in the US. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/De_Vargas_Street_House

Then onto to the Loretto Chapel with its "miraculous" staircase. This chapel was commissioned by Archbishop Lamy.

Vegetarian frito pie at the Cowgirl BBQ seemed appropriate (if not photogenic) for NM.

On the way out of town, I bought some last souvenirs, and this Santa Fe truffle by local chocolatier C.G. Higgins (www.cghiggins.com/). This was the Santa Fe Fiesta truffle and it's excellent! Spicy, cinnamony, pecany. If you have the chance to visit (or you can order online), this is a good one to try. I am a fan.

I made a shortish loop north to Window Rock. It's also the site of a memorial to the Navajo Code Talkers of World War II. Each of those bricks around the statue has a name of a code talker. Here's a little more about the code talkers. www.history.navy.mil/faqs/faq61-2.htm

(Click here for part 1 of the road trip.)